Can a wine be boisterous and yet elegant? Well Thomas' effort from the 2019 vintage of Grimsby Hillside fruit seems to embrace this contradiction. Complexity abounds with yellow apple, pear, lemon drop, toasted marzipan, ginger spice, but reigned in by flinty minerality and bright acidity. Mouthfeel is lovely showing malo's effect and perhaps lees contact. The14% abv is well integrated and the finish is very long. Yum. March 2025.